Full Body Harnesses: What Are They?
For many years, full body harnesses have been utilized in industry as personal protective equipment (PPE) for workers at heights, including window cleaners and steel erectors. The harnesses discussed in this article are made especially for climbing and are not intended for use in professional settings. Full body harnesses designed for climbing prioritize portability, lightweight design, and common climbing tie-in points. Professional harnesses must include metal connection points, backup attachment points, and padding in areas that climbers would find difficult or even hazardous. They also have distinct straps, buckles, certificates, and other criteria.
Wearing and Using a Full Body Harness
A climber puts on a full body harness by stepping into the leg loops and pulling the shoulder straps up and over their shoulders, which are then tightened with buckles. From here, securing it depends on the model of harness. Usually a full body harness meant for climbing has two reinforced loops at the front. Both of these loops need to be tied into when connecting to a rope or both must be clipped when connecting to an auto belay. It is important to note that until these two hard-points are joined by rope or locking carabiner, the harness isn’t completely attached or safe to climb in.
These loops can also be brought together via a locking carabiner for belaying. Be aware that belaying from this higher position can take practice and will feel very different from a sit style harness.
Some full body harnesses have a belt that clips across the waist or chest that helps keep the harness from slipping off when not tied in, but this belt isn’t weight bearing and shouldn’t be used to connect the rope or other climbing gear.
Pros and Cons of Full Body Harnesses
Full body harnesses for climbing do offer some extended safety features when compared to traditional sit harnesses. Because they secure the upper torso over the shoulders, full body harnesses have a higher tie in point. Hanging a climber’s weight above the center of gravity like this makes it nearly impossible to turn upside down. Because of this, a fall in a full body style harness is significantly less likely to result in a head injury.
This upright nature is also helpful in rescue situations where a climber might be unconscious or too injured to keep their body weight forward. Of course this also means that a conscious climber benefits from not needing to use their core strength to stay forward when hanging in the harness, which can be great for kids or folks with lower muscle control to stave off fatigue while hanging and resting. Pregnant climbers and climbers in large bodies also benefit from the higher attachment point which removes the traditional belt across the hips and belly, making for a more comfortable climb.
Full body harnesses have some drawbacks.
- Padding is either light or non-existent, so they aren’t likely as comfortable around the waist and legs (compared to a traditional sit harness), though this may feel offset by the upper body weight being supported by the shoulder straps.
- Since full body harnesses have a different structure around the waist, there are minimal gear loops (often 0-1), limiting the ability to rack gear on your harness.
- Depending on your height and body shape, the high attachment point can also be uncomfortable or in the way if you have a larger circumference chest.
How Safe are Full Body Harnesses?
Just like sit style harnesses, full body harnesses are tested and certified by the UIAA or EN. In real world numbers that is equivalent to the force of over 3,300 lbs upright and 2,200 lbs upside down.
Full body harnesses made for children test slightly lower at 10kN upright and 7kN upside down, but both tests show that harnesses are still significantly overbuilt for the task of holding a human off the ground safely.
The test for certifying a full body harness pulls both right side up and upside down. The forces the harness must withstand are equal to thousands of pounds in both directions.
How Common are Full Body Harnesses for Climbing?
Today, it isn’t actually that common to see full body harnesses used for climbing, except for small children. Gyms and the climbing community at large will see an increase in adult full body harness use with an increase in the (currently) smaller demographics like pregnant folks, differently-abled bodies, and folks in larger bodies out climbing in the future. Full body harnesses can help make that space safer and more comfortable for everyone.